This city has some beautiful scenes at night, especially in the plazas near the historic center. On some nights, you can catch people dancing in the street—and I was fortunate enough to catch a traditional performance with a full live band.
It's also quite nice during the day. In the winter it gets pretty hot in the afternoon until the evening, but there's plenty of churches, cafes, and restaurants to duck into for a cool break. There's also quite a few old, abandoned buildings that have beautiful details—just waiting to be restored like some of the museums and performance halls you see in this area.